Gye Nyame

Today, our class took a visit to Accra Rehabilitation Centre and the Ghana Federation of the Disabled. Joseph Atiga is in charge of the former, which is a government institution established in 1962 to train all categories (blind, deaf, mental retardation, physical disabilities, etc.) of disabled people in vocations such as tailoring, carpentry, shoemaking, crafts, and visual arts. While we were there, I asked several people if I could photograph them and was given permission to do so. The center was quiet because students were on a holiday break, but a few people were still milling around working on their craft. At the tailoring shop, a man sold some shirts to us, and one of my classmates purchased a sewn sleeve for her laptop bag from beautiful fabric there as well.

Abigail wears the most beautiful clothing. She does some designing independently and with a seamstress.

The mode of admission sequence was the following. First, guardians of the disabled would go to the nearest office of Department of Social Welfare (DSW). They write a social investigation report, including a medical report. This report is forwarded to the original DSW office. They, in turn, send the report to the center, who run an intake assessment interview. Once at the center, students are fed three meals a day. Rehab centers like this one are in every region in Ghana, except the Upper West Region. Students are educated during two semesters: February through June and September through December. Populations served here must be able to afford filing records, and performing assessments. The center is not overwhelmed with people, despite the large population of disabled in Ghana, because of monetary constraints.

Wheelchairs piled up in a corner, and weaving 

Mr. Atiga demonstrates the method a double transradial (mid forearm) amputee artist uses to hold a paintbrush, and a piece of that artist's work.

It isn't a school for children; people admitted are adults 17 years of age and older who never went to school, dropped out, etc. The training period before graduation is three years. The center doesn’t find their graduating students jobs, but they do recommend some students to the DSW.

The ratio of students to employees at the center is 30:20. Nurses and other Ghanaians don’t want to volunteer or work here; they would prefer to travel abroad to the USA or UK to make more money for themselves. The center is limited by lack of funds for food and supplies for the students because they do not receive any government money. They rely on donations from the community. NYU’s program donated 200 cedis to them in gratitude for hosting us.

Next, we proceeded to a conference room where we met with Frederick Ofosu, Isaac Tuwen, and Alexander ___. They are officers of the federation, which was founded in 1987. There are other associations that advocate for the disabled, including the Ghana Association of the Deaf, The Mental Health Society of Ghana, the Association for the Blind, and the Association for Albinism. They have multiple branches throughout Ghana in 150/215 districts.

The Ghana Disabilities Act was passed in 2000. It was very much welfare oriented, but disability has gone past the era of being a welfare issue. The Mental Health law was passed in 2012. Statistics on disabilities were taken in 2010 to estimate the amount of people with severe disabilities, and the number was 3%.

Also, GFD works on influencing politicians. Members look for support from citizens and internationally. Women, particularly, don’t have a well-represented voice, though this is recognized as a problem, which is better than an attitude of ignorance or indifference. Accessibility is key – many public places are inaccessible, thus leading to many disabled people without access to educations and thus resorting to begging. Ghana’s goal is to be more social welfare oriented, and in the direction of providing social services to those in need.

There are no service dogs or animals used in Ghana, which I thought was interesting because you commonly see cats, dogs, goats, and chickens wandering around on the roads.

After the conclusion of our meeting, we went to a stationary store to purchase school supplies for four different schools. Each school will receive 100 cedi worth of supplies. They are the La Enobal Public School primary program, which is a low funded junior high with kids ages 12-18; WaaWaa2, a school with a strong focus on autism/speech with kids ages 6/7; School for the Deaf, a junior high for kids 13-17; and the Developmental Center, which serves children and adults with mild to severe disabilities. Our class split into four groups and each group was in charge of one of the four schools. We all decided which supplies to buy. Because I am personally interested in art, I was happy to pick up markers, colored pencils, clay, brushes, and watercolors as part of the donation process. The books that we originally brought to Ghana will also be donated with these supplies next week. I wanted a roll of tape so I could put some pamphlets and memorabilia into my Moleskine, and I bought one here for 75 p. (35 cents).

A restaurant on Oxford Str.

Our lunch break was next. I needed to pick up some snacks for the trip to Cape Coast tomorrow, so I got off of the bus in Osu. I bought some crackers, salted cashews, honey hazelnut nougat, and a pack of four metal butter knives (for the peanut butter to go on the crackers). Next, I set off in search of an ATM to pull out some cedi for the weekend. I finally got lucky on the third ATM where my card was accepted. (I’m not sure why it didn’t go through at two of them as it is a Visa.) I had bought a sandwich at Shop Rite for lunch and also looked at what the vendors had to offer on the street. After that I hailed a cab, bargained him down to 6 cedis and headed off to school for the lecture.

Our class today was more of a question and answer session/discussion than a lecture. We spoke with Emmanuel Ofosu Yeboah and his Public Relations Officer (PHO), Anthony. Emmanuel was on Skype. Emmanuel’s aim is to ease the difficulties of people who are disabled and often have no parents, parents who have forsaken them, or cannot afford schooling. He wants to form a sports academy in each region of Ghana, but it has not been implemented due to lack of funding. He speaks of his religious beliefs with confidence and inspiration, saying that God put him on the earth in order to complete this task. (The title for today's blog entry is a Twi saying meaning 'Accept God'.) The academy Emmanuel dreams of opening would be open to the public so that everyone could have access to it.

Emmanuel’s theory about why the disabled are begging is because family, companies in Ghana, and their friends do not believe that a disabled person can contribute to society. Emmanuel’s friends claimed he was unable to play soccer, but he proved them incorrect. He says that beggars need to be provided with jobs and education so they have choices.

Emmanuel wants to ride his bicycle from CA to Washington DC to NYC to raise $3-5 million from Nike. He wants to do it by the end of May in order to establish a school in Ghana for disabled children. Emmanuel currently works as a taxi driver in CA. I asked him about how to break new ground as an occupational therapist in a country where there are none. He said that if a school is built, then people will come. Also, in Ghana, students need to learn about OT as a profession. Emmanuel is limited by the government who has not backed his efforts, either in building and donating 100 wheelchairs or starting the school. He said that this is a mistake because “disability is a friend to human beings… You never know when you’re going to be in a wheelchair.”

On a personal level, Emmanuel said that he met his wife at an African naming ceremony. He currently has three young girls, aged 9, 7 and 3.

I was really tired after dinner at Tante Marie tonight. Tomorrow is a three hour drive to Cape Coast where we will be going to Kakum National Park and doing a canopy walk. We’ll be staying overnight in a separate hotel there, and have a very early pickup at 6 am on the bus tomorrow. Sunday we’ll return to Afia Beach Hotel and it’s a free afternoon, so I’m eager to go to the Art Center and maybe take a nap.

Yaa, Aba, Ayawo, Yaaba, Yaayaa, Awo

Good evening, everyone. I'd like to start out this Thursday's blog entry with a little cultural information. In Ghana, many new babies are named for the days of the week they are born on. If you look up the date and year you're born, you can find out what your Ghanaian name might have been. February 18, 1988 was a Thursday; my Ghanaian names are: Yaa, Aba, Ayawo, Yaaba, Yaayaa, & Awo. In Ghana, you call a man or woman older than you Uncle or Auntie and you call people your age/younger than you Sister/Brother. 

HAH! I FINALLY GOT A PICTURE OF THIS. I ZOOMED & CROPPED CAUSE I'M SNEAKY.

This morning I woke up and walked down to the beach, which was littered with rubbish. My mom had specifically asked me to stand in the ocean so that she could stand in the ocean in Connecticut and we'd both be in the ocean at the same time, so I acquiesced. However, sadly, I think it's too dirty to swim here. A man who was jogging came over to me and introduced himself as John. I told him I was a student from New York City. He welcomed me to Ghana, told me his favorite soccer (football, here) team, and told me to walk toward the right side of the beach (toward the metropolitan center of town) to see good sights. After that, he invited me to take his photograph (which was terribly overexposed due to being backlit). I know I'm being redundant, but people are extremely friendly here.

Today our morning trip was to the University of Ghana, a public institution located on a beautiful campus. The clay is a resplendent red color, the buildings look modern, flowers are planted in rows, and the library boasts statues out front. We attended a lecture by Dr. Godson Ahortor, a professor of Theology and Philosophy at the University of Ghana. Dr. Ahortor spoke about the intersection between religion and disability. The following are excerpts from my notes which I wrote down today during the first lecture.

Our class photographed with Dr. Godson Ahortor at the University of Ghana.

The goals of the lecture were to look and understand the interconnections between the three major religions, health, and ability in the experience of the west African people. We took a look at how religion affects outlooks on health and disability, show some African traditional world views (and how they underpin Christianity and Islam) and their attitudes toward disability and healthcare. We also reviewed that many negative attitudes about disability are grounded in religion and culture, and these beliefs still affect healthcare in west Africa. The following is a typed copy of some notes that I took in class today:

To begin with, there are three major religions: Christianity, Islam, and African Traditional Religion (ATR). The ATR group was gone into detail by Dr. Ahortor. He said that the African initiated churches that were started by natives strongly believe humans fight evil forces on a daily basis. They feel Christ has power over evil, which in their world, is a reality. Looking at the WHO definition of health, we can see that the spiritual component is missing, but the ATR prioritize it in their dogma.

The bases of spiritual healing from ATR include the belief in duality of life (physical/spiritual), life-centered philosophy, spiritual causes of ill health, holistic healing, and reincarnation beliefs. Dr. Ahortor gave an example about a boy (son) who dreams that he "gives birth to his father." 

Evil is defined as what threatens life. Evil deeds are admitted in death (if I understood this correctly) despite a person's intention to take them to the grave, and therefore the family/spiritual leaders will consequently cremate the remains. This is seen as a punishment because a pious person would rest in death with their family. Evil is taken so seriously by the ATR that they will go as far to exhume a body and then cremate it if they become aware of evil acts. Some examples of evil acts are cold-blooded murder, abortions, ill treatment of animals, and ill treatment of other disabled people. Timing and rituals are important, such as picking herbs. Another evil act is not giving birth or impregnating a woman due to infertility. Because you do not contribute to the growth of society, this is seen as morally wrong. The remedy is to "drink a pot of rain water left outside." (It seemed unclear how Dr. Ahortor felt about this system of beliefs. I was unable to tell if he condemned it or elsewise until the very end of our lecture. At this point, he said he was a Christian, and that his parents/grandparents still followed traditional ways, despite evidence of the efficacy of his eyesight improvement after western medical care.)

Some cures for illness according to ATR are confession, expiation, exorcism, purification rituals, reconciliation (i.e., an estranged family), etc. Disability is seen as a divine punishment, and there is no term for the disabled in the ATR language (they are simply deemed "sick"). Spiritual causation is attributed, both congenital and developed, to development of illness. The attitudes toward disability were to keep the person out of sight and segregated. The disabled person was also subjected to cruelty at the hand of their peers (insults, taunting, physical abuse, objects for sacrifice, etc.). They are even regarded as a source of pollution.

With regards to Christianity and disability, Dr. Ahortor quoted Leviticus 21:16-23 from the bible and a passage from John. Some men do not qualify to "offer the bread of God" and "...[the defect] shall not come near to offer offerings... to the Lord, lest he profanes my sanctuaries, for I the lord sanctify them." Champion care schools have helped to change these perspectives.

Islam regards disability as not a blessing or curse, but a challenge. Disability is found in both the Quran and Ragelith. Imam Yucel said that "there is no disability of the body, but rather of the heart." Disability is also viewed in the context of qadar/kismet or fate; a concept expressed as the belief in preordination.

In conclusion, religious influence on healthcare is still very strong. There is much reliance on spiritual theories of diseases, ill health, and disability. Healing in western African societies is very much of a religious activity than a scientific process. Social dimensions of health are linked up with religion and morals of the community.

I visited the University Bookstore and took some photographs around the library. After that, our bus dropped us off at the Accra Mall for about 45 minutes. While there, I went into a couple of boutique shops and purchased some souvenirs to bring home. I also window shopped at the Woodin (fabric) store and a couple of other shops. After this, the bus dropped a small group of students at Osu where we had burgers and fries at Frankie's.

Practicing phrases from the Ghanaian language, Twi.

The second class of the day was titled The Meaning of Art in African Culture. It was given by one of Abigail's friends. He said that he had started work at the Autism Center in Ghana in 2009. The founder's son had autism which was why she was inspired to create a place for enrichment for children. Only people who can afford care, often times, are the ones to get it, unfortunately. Some of the activities that were done at the center included painting with hands and feet, dancing therapy, and paper mache projects. Children are often isolated at home, so the point was to get them to enjoy the art-making process. Children were given an opportunity to create and sell some of their artwork as well.

Traditional African art was completed with the intention of telling stories rather than making decorations. In 600 AD - 1000 AD in Northern Africa, the common pattern was to use earth tones spontaneously. One interesting aspect of African art is that it is a gender balanced context. Men and women both make artwork, and there is not a sense of class structure involved either. One thing I thought was interesting to learn was that Dutch/Indonesian Fabric is thought to be authentically African, but this is only because African artists adapted and strengthened the fabrics and incorporated it into their art.

Some African artists of note are Yinka Shonibare, who works primarily with installations and Romald Hazoume, who finds symbolic meaning in the materials he uses in his installations. Hazoume recently had an exhibit in the Brooklyn Museum in NYC. He primarily uses plastics and metal. Artists look at transformations of materials, i.e. charcoal/garbage. They also look at the context of their exhibitions. Our guest lecturer pontificates that a gallery space with white walls excludes people by its nature, so he prefers to show art at a public space. Some spaces he has shown art include the outside of a house, and draped cloth on bridges and covering architecture. He also invites people to come and see his work. I asked about Art Therapists in Ghana and NYU holds an independent study program in this country. I learned that there are approximately 2/3 Art Therapists working at the Autism Center.

Afiehyiapa! (Happy New Year!)

I woke up this morning feeling fully rejuvenated! Although I still have some lingering effects, the majority of the traveler’s sickness has exited my system. I ate a hearty breakfast at the hotel which included some fried Ghanaian eggs before the bus picked our class up. 

Our first stop of the day was Accra’s City Center (aka Business/Financial District) / Post Office Area. Students exited the bus in groups and were given approximately an hour to explore. We were instructed to use our tape measures to measure step heights, rampways, and door entrances to compare them to the ADA standards. We were also instructed to take photographs of each other doing so. The last part of our assignment was to photograph something interesting that you see.

Janelle, Darcy and I went to the Post Office. We bought some postcards and stamps while we were there. We spoke to a teller about people with disabilities. The teller responded to our inquiries by saying that if a person in a wheelchair wanted to use the post office, they would need to have their family members carry them inside or else they would not be able to enter. Outside of the Post Office, we took some measurements of buildings and ramps, but found that step height indicated ramp length was not as long as needed. Steps ranged from 4” apiece to 14” (or more) as reported by our class during discussion. While measuring with the tape measure, a woman peered outside and asked what I was doing. I explained that we were a group of students and were interested in learning about how people in wheelchairs accessed the bank. I received a chilly stare after giving this information. It is understandable, given that we are four Obruni (foreigners) who are making measurements about a place unknown. A security risk is always present in Ghana because there is such a wide gap between the rich and the poor.

I asked Anita about some of the measures taken for security yesterday evening as we rode from our restaurant to the hotel. Many buildings, particularly in affluent areas, are affixed with barbed wire coils, spiked gates, and rather high walls. Anita said that Ghana is still a developing country, and she has not known personally any home invasion that has occurred. The precautions, however, are still desired as a deterrent for anyone with bad intentions. Afia Hotel on the beach has barbed wire coils. Many businesses have security guards posted out front. And NYU Accra’s campus in Labone has barbed wire and an electrified fence.

We walked onwards. I asked several people if I could take their photograph. It never ceases to amaze me seeing people walking around carrying hundreds of bananas on top of their heads (or boxes, or suitcases, for that matter). However, I was denied at every turn, which was a bit disappointing. Anita says Ghanaians are reluctant to be photographed because they have been exploited in the past from those images. I did meet one man, John, who let me take a photo of his shop. He was very forthcoming and friendly, and after introducing myself as a student, we chatted about our trip. We parted ways after he wrote down his phone number, saying that if we wanted to take a rest from shopping or spend some time with him we could come over to his stall. 

While wandering around in the Business District, we also met Dorothy, from Columbia (Ohio). She said she had children who worked and lived in the USA. Dorothy was also very outgoing. She told us that we could take a break at her shop as needed, and even went as far as to say that she had a vacation home that we could come to(!). The hospitality in Ghanaian culture is quite remarkable compared to the USA. 

Dorothy took us back to her electronics shop and we sat down under fans while we talked. Dorothy seemed open to discussing disabilities. She seemed to mistake mental illnesses as mental retardation. Is this a flaw of the language, or do Ghanaians interpret mental illnesses such as Depression/Schizophrenia/Bipolar Disorder a form of developmental delay? It is interesting to note that the phrase "don't be silly/crazy/mad" is considered offensive in Ghana because it is taken literally. I.e., "Are you Schizophrenic?" In any case, she considered whether there were any mental hospitals nearby, and said that there weren't many. One of them was about an hour away, she estimated. 

The next stop of the day was to Kwame Nkrumah National Park. This park is dedicated to the first President of Ghana, and he is memorialized within a monument on the site. Nkrumah was part of a group of the “big six” politicians who pushed for democracy in Ghana. Nkrumah was successfully able to push forward toward capitalism for his people during his reign. Six years before his presidency, he was imprisoned for his political views (to unify the four territories of the Gold Coast and win his nation’s independence from the United Kingdom). We took a tour of the museum which is located on the site. The tour included photographs of Nkrumah. He met with many people of importance at various points in his life, including Fidel Castro (despite his non-Marxist views), Queen Elizabeth, John. F. Kennedy, and Mohammed Ali. His thesis was present, and so were the 14 books that he had written over the years. There was also his first coffin. He had been buried three times – once, out of Ghana, then moved to his family’s home in Nkroful, and finally brought to Accra.

The mantra of his political party was “Always forward, never back.” His mausoleum is intended to look like a machete with the blade facing down, which is a symbol of peace. Beautiful sculptures and foliage/trees were planted all along the stone walkways by various notable people. One of these was a mango tree planted by the late Nelson Mandela. There was also a peacock and a peahen wandering through the gardens.

In class, we had presentations of the photographs that were taken in the Business District and we discussed our interactions with people on the street. Lunch today was a Coca-Cola, a Ghanaian hamburger, and fries/onion rings at the Tribes Bar & Restaurant (at Afia Hotel). I was feeling a little homesick, I guess. It was funny to see that what all of us stocked up on at the grocery store yesterday: soda and chocolate/candy! A Coca-Cola in Ghana is made with cane sugar and is given to you in a glass bottle with a regular glass (no ice). I try not to drink too much of the stuff when I’m home, but here it tastes revitalizing.

Finally, I made it to the Makola market today! It is the second largest outdoor market in Ghana and the largest in all of West Africa. At first, I went with a small group of people, but I wanted to browse so I left them to wander around on my own. The market is very congested and has narrow walkways. It is hard to imagine anyone with a disability making their way through the dimly lit, fragrant-smelling, uneven pathways, stairs, and corners. Merchants sell all kinds of goods such as fabrics, pots/pans, spices, fried fish, shoes, plastic dishes, jewelry, electronic adaptors, etc. I ended up purchasing quite a bit of fabric today. I didn’t haggle because fabric prices are pretty fixed. I also bought a small clutch so that my cedi are easier to organize (they’re larger than dollars and wouldn’t fit into my wallet – talk about a first world problem). The clutch is a patchwork of several different vibrant fabrics. They are so saturated with color that they remind me of the plumage of tropical birds or precious stones. It was hard to select from the huge variety that was available!

I ran into a few classmates about an hour later, and we all caught a taxi for 5 cedi (no A/C) back to the hotel. Tonight, we all met the seamstress tonight at Tante Marie restaurant. She took my sketch and my measurements. It will cost 45 cedi to make the dress with ruffles (about $22) and the fabric cost about 60 cedi (10 yards/cedi for the highest quality brand), which is about $28. $50 is an excellent price for a custom-tailored, custom-designed, authentic Ghanaian dress! I am trying to collect dresses from different countries. I have a kimono from Japan, a sari from India and this will be the third. I’m extremely excited to see how it turns out. I want to wear it at the farewell dinner on our last day here.

Ago! Ameh!

Last night I got next to no sleep due to “Traveler’s Sickness.” A few people have hypothesized the cause. Perhaps the fruit salad I eat in the morning wasn’t rinsed with bottled water. Maybe the unusual spices in the meat and rice were the culprit. Or perhaps the peanut soup, which was very spicy for my sensitive palate. In any case, I was in and out of the bathroom all night becoming very dehydrated indeed. I missed a trip to the Makola market today because I needed to stay close to a toilet. As this trip was one I had been eagerly looking forward to, it is needless to remark on my level of disappointment.

I had one slice of toast for breakfast and half of a plain white rice ball for lunch. The hotel staff were very attentive to me and checked on me every few hours. I met Anita in the morning, who took my temperature with a thermometer that she placed in my armpit. After a consulting phone call with the NYU Accra Nurse, she mixed an electrolyte packet in a 1.5L water bottle for me. I also crunched up some Ghanaian pills that are sort of like their version of TUMS and took some other medications from the first aid kit for the intermittent severe abdominal cramping.

Fortunately, I was feeling well enough in the afternoon to attend class. The class was a recap of the environmental assessments and interview assignments. Students made some observations that the market was not very accessible for the disabled. The doorways were narrow, crowds were heavy, and some smells were overwhelming (i.e., smoked fish and burning rubbish). Students made several astute observations. There are few street signs in Ghana. Landmarks are used to navigate, instead. This would provide difficulty with those who are diagnosed with Autism and/or developmental delay. When students chatted to people in the market on the topic of disabled people in Ghana, shopkeepers were more inclined to recognize terms such as “cripple”, “crutches”, “wheelchair”, and “blind” over “handicapped.” When discussing the disabled, some shopkeepers expressed that they looked down on beggars because they know that some disabled people have the capacity to earn money working. They also told students that Americans and foreigners (Obruni) are more likely to give money to the beggars than the Ghanaian population. Another interesting note included the fact that nobody seemed to be wearing sunglasses. The sunglasses fact I point out because one cultural difference in Ghana is that eye contact is expected for proper etiquette. This is very different from New York City, where everyone does their best to avoid looking at one another. Sunglasses were sold at the Art Center – a more touristy site located within walking distance of Afia Hotel. I will be making up the trip there as well during some free time.

I am a little apprehensive about the Art Center because the shopkeepers there are reportedly very pushy. I am the type of person who gets annoyed when a salesperson in NYC follows me around the store. I like to browse quietly and consider my selections for a period of time. The shopkeepers in the Art Center will grab you, corner you, and work together to sell you their wares at prices that could be considered “tourist traps.” You have to be able to drive a hard bargain, say no assertively, and not be impacted by the high pressure that the shopkeepers will inevitably press upon you. Still, some of the pieces of art that my classmates showed me were remarkable. I really liked seeing the paintings of giraffes and zebras on plantain leaves, and some beaded bracelets.

I was envious to hear everybody had a great time bargaining for items, and felt very unhappy to have missed out on the socialization and shopping experiences. Fortunately, some of the students want to go back for more, and there is a block of free time tomorrow from 1 to 4 p.m. when some of them (and me!) will be returning to the Makola Market. A seamstress will be coming to have dinner with us tomorrow night and will take requests to make dresses, skirts, etc. from the yards of fabric purchased at the market. 

The second half of class was a guest lecture by Mrs. Faustie Owabe Gyeke, a midwife who discussed family structures with us. She also went into detail about the purposes of different types of families in Ghana – nuclear, polygamous, and extended. We were able to learn about the limitations of the social structures that assisted disabled people. We took a look at educational factors, economic factors, and integration of the disabled into society. Just recently, the National Accreditation Board is insisting that all public places should have two pathways to help the physically challenged people to gain access. National T.V. stations have interpreters to the Deaf and Dumb during the news. Several institutions provide vocational training to the handicapped, including the School of the Blind in Akropong; the School for Mentally Retarded at Dzorwolu; and the School for Deaf and Dumb at Aburi. Still, there are still some disableds who prefer to beg for alms. Many businesses in Ghana do not have any hiring quotas – i.e., “5 % of employees must be disabled.”

In conclusion, poverty and ignorance reflect adversely on the health and social functioning of societal members. When a child is born, it becomes the responsibility of the extended family, community members, the State, and the Government. “We have a role to play to make a disabled person gain personal independence.”

Anita said something that really resonated with me today. “Being a stranger in a foreign place gives you some of the same experiences as a disabled person.” I certainly feel out of place here and it will be interesting to catch up on the missed expeditions from today. 

Dinner was at Sunshine Salad, a lovely indoor air conditioned restaurant located on Oxford Str. in Osu. I had some rice and a small spoonful of noodles. Some of our class went to the Koala grocery market in order to purchase some snacks and other items, and I went along. I bought myself a jar of peanut butter, a razor (forgot to pack mine), and a Snickers bar for about 35 cedi. Some students also went to a small Gelato shop across the street from Sunshine Salad for dessert. I indulged in a modest scoop of Dulce in a cone for 5 cedi (roughly $2.50). 

Eti sang? Ah sey.

How are you doing? I’m hanging in there, although today was a little rough. It was 88 degrees earlier (“felt like 95 degrees” according to a weather report) and I’m a bit sensitive to heat as a side effect of a medication that I take. I feel like my hair is always wet here and sweat drips off of my chin on to the tablecloths at restaurants. I’m glad I’ve had a little experience in Bikram Yoga because learning to endure the heat and humidity of the hot room has helped me to try and be patient and move slowly here. I am VERY glad that our hotel, the bus, and the NYU Accra campus classrooms have air conditioning.

Breakfast was at 7 a.m. for me – I got up early to take my Canon and shoot some photographs of the hotel along the beach. I purchased a pair of sandals at the Afia Gallery which is a small art space located in the hotel. I took some photos in there of some of the wooden sculptures. They also sell bangles, small carvings, gift boxes, statues of all sizes, masks, postcards, and jewelry. 

Following breakfast students got on the bus to receive a tour of the NYU Accra campus. Orientation took place there and we reviewed some cultural practices in Ghana. It’s offensive to make a “thumbs up” sign here, and to hail a cab you extend your elbow, stretch out your arm and make a “come hither” motion with your hand pronated. The campus has no hallways due to the weather being stable, which makes it difficult to be handicapped accessible. Students met and mingled with NYU Abu Dubai students who were also receiving Orientation today. About 30-40 students attend the NYU Accra campus during regular semesters, and there is a small library, computer lab, student lounge, and a few classrooms.

Following Orientation, students rode the bus to Headlines Hospitality, a restaurant where we were served delicious squeezed watermelon juice, rolls, fried red snapper, spinach and mushrooms, steamed rice, peanut soup, and vanilla ice cream with pineapple slices.

Across the street from Headlines Hospitality was an ATM where I withdrew some cedi for the next couple of days. I’m going to carry quite a bit of money on me but put it in different places – such as in my wallet, in the back flap of my moleskine, pockets, satchel zipped compartment, etc. I will carry mostly small bills in my wallet – since it wouldn’t look good to be negotiating a price of an object while flashing around 50 cedi bills.

Our first class at the NYU Accra campus was similar to an Occupational Therapy Activity Analysis class. We discussed ADA guidelines for wheelchair accessibility (entry ways must provide at least 32” for clearance, and ramps must be 1 foot long for each ½” of terrain level changes). We also talked about factors that someone with physical, psychological/mental and cognitive impairments might struggle with – noise, smell, air quality, traffic density, auditory qualities, floor/footing types, etc. and then practiced doing a site analysis in pairs and groups of 3. I paired up with Emily and transcribed the measurements that she took of steps leading into the library. Luckily, she remembered to pack a tape measure, but Anita also had some for loaning out.

Tomorrow we’re headed into the marketplace to do a real site analysis and also perform an interview with some of the people there. It’s supposedly very crowded, bargaining is a must, and the tape measures will be coming along. I’m hoping to buy some bolts of cloth which a seamstress can fabricate into an African dress for me before departure (!) as well as picking up cloth for my crafty neighbor Kira in Connecticut and my mom. Of course, jewelry, shoes, clothing, and art are also going to be objects of interest.

Following class, we had a break and then dinner, but I was feeling queasy. I tried to keep it together but wanted to just lay down and not move and hopefully have my stomach settle. Back at Afia hotel I crunched on some pills and then took some pepto bismol Anita gave me, but the food has officially made me sick. After a cool shower, uploading photos and relaxing I’m glad to be done for the day and hope that I get a lot of rest this evening because I will need all of my energy tomorrow.

Photos were taken with a Canon 50D and 50 mm f/1.8 lens and with my iPhone.

Arrival! Akwaaba (Yo)

Today was the first day in Ghana. Akwaaba! ("Welcome!", in Twi, pronounced 'Tchree') My plane was originally scheduled to depart at 8:45 p.m. but didn't end up leaving until approximately midnight due to delays and baggage that was being transferred over from earlier flights. Happily, my baggage arrived with me (sunglasses intact). The flight took about 11 hours. Delta was great, offering a hot hand towel, sandwiches and milano cookies for snacks, and a lot of orange juice and tea. It was tough because I'm getting over a sinus infection and being on a plane in coach is no place to be sick. But, Delta had about sixty movies to choose from to distract me. They have individual touch screens to make selections for each passenger. They also offer a selection of CDs and radio stations to listen to. I borrowed a pair of Bose headphones from my good friend Louis to use for the trip, which canceled out the noise of the plane and let me get almost two hours of sleep.

(Side note: have you seen Delta Airlines safety videos? They're hilarious. Take a look here and here.)

Once I arrived at the airport circa 2:30 p.m. GMT (Greenwich Mean Time, AKA Ghana Maybe Time), I figured I'd be able to connect to wifi and send an email saying I got in to my dad, but that wasn't the case. The Accra airport is small, with only four luggage conveyors in its entirety. I went through immigrations and picked up my luggage. I converted some cash into Ghana Cedi, which come in bills of 50, 10, 5, 2, and 1. The exchange rate is roughly 2.4 GHS per USD. Shortly following this exchange, a man approached me as I made my way toward Abigail, the woman meeting NYU students and bringing them to the hotel. He helped himself to pushing one of my suitcases over to her and then demanded compensation for his trouble. Note to self: work on asserting / saying "no thank you." I foolishly gave an extravagant tip. FYI, Ghana has a non-tipping culture. This means that if you feel as if you have received good service, you can leave a Cedi or two, but it is not expected that you add a gratuity of 15-30% - as expected in New York City.

The bus that drove the NYU students to the Afia Beach Hotel had air conditioning, to my relief. Handicapped children tapped the glass windows of the bus as we idled at a red light. I saw women carrying bolts of cloth on large baskets atop their heads, stray dogs and cats darting here and there, a goat, people clustered around gravel cutouts, exposed piping from the sewer systems, mounds of rubble, trash in the red clay streets, men laying on stone steps of buildings, a woman nonchalantly hiking her dress up to urinate on the sidewalk, Christmas lights decorating a gas station, and barbed wire fencing atop many of the private residences in Osu.

Our hotel itself is rustic and charming. It includes complimentary mosquito nets. Rooms are doubles. Included within the bathroom are toilet paper, towels, two buckets, and a bar of soap. The hotel is located right on the ocean and has a restaurant, a beach-side bar, a tennis court, and an art gallery. I purchased a 24-hour Internet wifi coupon for 45 GHD before finding out that NYU is getting their own access ID for our duration here. In any case, it allowed me to send the email home that I'd wanted to let me parents know I got here safely and update the blog.

At 6:00 students reconvened to go out to dinner together at Tante Marie, a traditional Ghanaian restaurant. We were served roasted potatoes, beef strips mixed with vegetables, a lovely salad with a housemade dressing/dip, sticky white rice and a spicy tomato sauce (which was described to me as "not that spicy" -- I might be in trouble). Dessert was banana yogurt which was delicious.

I finished up the evening with a cold shower (if you want to heat the water, it takes 15 minutes after a valve is pulled, but who wants heated shower in 80 degree weather anyway?) . Hoping to get up early tomorrow to take some photographs.

"Emmanuel's Gift" (2005)

Another prerequisite of Disability in a Global Context is to watch the documentary  "Emmanuel's Gift" and write a reaction to it. The movie was on reserve at NYU, but I chose to purchase it and stream it from Amazon for $5.99. The following is my completion of that assignment. 

Emmanuel Ofosu Yeboah is a young man who was born in 1977 with a congenital disfigurement of his left leg in a small village in Ghana. 10% of citizens in the country of Ghana are disabled. The disabled are considered to be second class citizens. Disability is seen as a curse or a punishment from a deity rather than having a biological origin, and therefore the child’s deformity was seen as shameful. Emmanuel’s father deserted his family after Emmanuel’s birth, plunging the family into poverty. Other people told Emmanuel’s mother to poison him or leave him to die. Emmanuel’s mother, Comfort Yeboah, provided what she could to him, but she was sick. Emmanuel had to drop out of school at age 13 to support her. He earned $1 a day selling vegetables. When he was still in school, he used to rise before dawn to polish 20 pairs of shoes a day before going to class. Children in Ghana have to carry their books, chairs, and desks with them to school if they're lucky enough to have those supplies. Being disabled, therefore, is a great limitation for a child. Emmanuel grew up without running water or electricity. A lack of immunizations in the country result in many people with movement disorders and blindness. Emmanuel traveled to Accra, the capital of Ghana, a city with a population of 3 million, to earn $2 a day for his family. He could have earned $10 a day if he begged like the other disabled people residing there, but he was too proud to do so. His mother died of her abdominal illness at age 37. The life expectancy in Ghana is only 61 years.

At one point as a young man, Emmanuel wrote to a grant asking for a mountain bike. Because of the unusual request, he piqued the curiosity of those fulfilling requests. He was given a couple of shirts, bike shorts, and a helmet with the bike. Emmanuel proceeded to bike 600 kilometers across the entire country of Ghana, one-legged. His aim was to show that disabled people were capable of doing more than sitting on the street corner and begging (as is expected). He was followed by the media as he completed the ride, and the coverage received international attention. A United States surgeon amputated his vestigial leg and provided him with a prosthetic, free of charge. After PT, and within two weeks, he was riding his bike again after the surgery. His first couple of steps with the prosthetic brought tears to my eyes. Wearing two shoes at the same time and trousers were huge accomplishments to Emmanuel. Then, at a ceremony in his home town, his father made an appearance. This was 26 years after leaving the family. He had remarried and raised seven other children, stating that he had left earlier due to “financial difficulties.” Whatever the case, Emmanuel made amends.

Emmanuel’s mission is to allow the disabled to be employed and to improve mobility of the disabled people in Ghana. He built 100 wheelchairs with the help of volunteers and brought them to his home town, but 100 wheelchairs was not enough for all of the people who needed them. Nike presented Emmanuel with the Casey Martin Award and a $50,000 contract to provide school money, adaptive equipment, and assistance to those with disabilities. It’s a large figure in the USA, but in Ghana the sum is astronomical. I looked up the average annual Ghanaian income in Cedi, and converted it into the equivalency of USD. As of December 2013, the average income is $520.  Nike’s contract, therefore, was the same amount as 20 families’ lifetime savings – or 96x the average Ghanaian income.

Emmanuel made groundbreaking progress in a country where little legislature for the disabled existed. He encourages the disabled to advocate for themselves as workers, and wants to get them off the street. I found the account very inspiring. I think it took a lot of courage for Emmanuel to approach the country leaders and tell them what the disabled people needed. Normally, disabled people are prohibited from sharing the same space as royalty in Ghana. Emmanuel set the stage for the first disabled attendants to be allowed in the presence of a king’s court. The king spoke to his people about the need for disabled people to work and live fulfilling, independent lives. Emmanuel’s story inspired Jim MacLaren as well. MacLaren was an American man who suffered from a C5 [neck] fracture during a bicycle race after losing a leg in a motorcycle accident in NYC. He started an annual 56-mile marathon in the United States.

Emmanuel also helped to fund the start of a school for disabled children to attend. I was moved by this component of his success. Disabled children were previously left alone at home while their parents went out in the community to work. Now these children were empowered to attend school, enlighten themselves, and become more knowledgeable citizens. I hope that because of Emmanuel’s expedition, many other disabled children find the strength within themselves to demand the rights that they deserve in Ghana.